UK 2018: Part 5
Cornwall the sequel…
The Cornish weather remained kind to us allowing our adventures to continue.
We’d heard of a lovely coastal walk which serendipitously finished in another little fishing village on our itinerary.
Cornwall: Talland and Polperro
We drove to Talland, which is a tiny hamlet close enough to the sea to dip its toes in the water. There’s not much there except for a church and a cosy cafe, oh and a quiet cove with a beach. Having parked we found the pathway and headed west towards Polperro.
The Cornish coastline is stunning and from the path on the clifftop you can see out to sea for miles. It only took about 45 minutes for us to reach Polperro.
This place is just about as cute as a cute fishing village can get. It’s pretty small and seams even smaller when you share it with so many other tourists, but has many interesting gift stores, a working harbour and a central courtyard where you can rest your legs and fully enjoy the pleasures of a traditional Cornish pasty.
Having refuelled we set off back to the car. It was really the most glorious day and with the pasty calories still running through our bodies we decided to continue east past Talland and onto Looe. Looe was twice as far from Talland than Polperro was, so it took us about 2 hours. We’d visited Looe a week or so before and liked it so were happy to take another look.
Now a pasty can only take you so far before you’re due another pit stop. A full roast and a pint of cider did the trick. Looe has a plethora of eateries so you’ll always find something to tickle your fancy.
The one drawback from going on a long walk in one direction is that you have to walk back. With a full tummy and feeling the effects of Cornish cider I was a little snoozy. Was the car really 4 miles away!!!
As it happens the time flew by and before long I was back behind the steering wheel driving back to Liskeard.
Cornwall: Fowey (pronounced Foy)
When you drive on unfamiliar roads you tend to rely on a GPS system. It pretty much gets you to the right place so sometimes you don’t pay much attention to the route. We knew we were close to Fowey but didn’t expect to turn a sharp bend to find we were driving onto a small car ferry. We were on one of those narrow roads with traffic behind us, so there was no going back. We paid our 5 quid and enjoyed the short 5 minute cruise across the river Fowey estuary.
I loved Fowey. Once home to Daphne du Maurier. It’s small but oh so charming and full of eye catching gift shops, restaurants, bakeries and a tiny local aquarium full of, well, fish locals! You get to meet characters as Brill, Turbot, Pollack, Bass and Bream!
Once you pass through the town you reach a woodland pathway to take you to the fabulously named Readymoney Copse, and then out onto the cliffs and the coastal trail.
From two footed to two wheeled travel! We drove to Wadebridge to explore the town, rent a couple of reasonably priced bicycles from Bridge Bike Hire and try out the Camel trail. The Camel trail is so called as it runs along the Camel river. Camel comes from Cornish language meaning ‘the crooked one’ – just in case you thought there’d be actual Camels! Like anyone would do that, right! Hhm!
It’s just under 9 kms (5.5 miles) from Wadebridge to Padstow and the mostly flat route makes it easy riding with plenty of time to admire the views. Just watch out for the other cyclists!
We arrived at our Padstow destination along with many, many other keen visitors.
The town huddles around the harbour area which is jam packed with delightful stores, mouth watering smells and tourists!!!
If you’re prepared to wait a while you can queue to get your very own gourmet take away fish and chips from Rick Stein’s posh chippy. It is worth it! And if you’re very lucky you can find a harbourside bench to sit and eat your celebrity lunch amongst the hoi polloi. We were lucky that day!
There’s more to Padstow than just the hustle and bustle. If you continue past the harbour and over the next grassy hill the countryside opens up and you’re treated to spacious panoramas and vast stretches of empty beach. It really was our lucky day!
With just enough gusto we cycled back to Wadebridge and then home to our awaiting four legged wards.
Who’d have guessed Cornwall would be a trilogy!